Journey

Six decades across battlefields, tiger reserves, and the Himalayas — the life of Shiv Kunal Verma, year by year.

Shiv Kunal Verma
The Journey

A Life in Full

Six decades across battlefields, tiger reserves, and the Himalayas — from a soldier's son carried across the McMahon Line as an infant to the historian giving India back its military and natural history.

Founder & President, Fortress India.


"Remember son, when you grow up, shoot tigers with a camera, not with a gun!"

George Schaller · Kanha, c. 1965
Era I

A Soldier's House

1959–1971
  1. Doomed for Doon

    His parents marry at the Doon School itself; headmaster John Martyn bellows across the tables that the yet-unborn son must be registered for Doon. "I was doomed for Doon!"

  2. Born at Doon Hospital, Dehradun

    "Kunal" for Emperor Ashok's son; "Shiv" for an ancestor whose engraved pistol turned up in the Nizam of Hyderabad's armoury.

  3. Carried into Walong, NEFA

    Across the Digaru on a swimming elephant, to a bamboo basha that tigers tested with their paws at night. His father's battalion, 2 Rajput, stood on the McMahon Line.

  4. 2 Rajput destroyed on the Nam Ka Chu

    The battalion is annihilated in the opening of the China war. The grief and silence around that battle would become the germ of his life's work.

  5. A camera, not a gun

    At Kanha, aged four, a chance meeting with biologist George Schaller: shoot tigers with a camera, not with a gun.

  6. Eleven months at Fort Benning

    While his father tops the Allied officers' course in Georgia: Little League home runs, and Apollo 11 watched live on a neighbour's colour TV.

  7. The assault on Akhaura

    His father leads 18 Rajput in the Bangladesh War — earning a Battle Honour and a Mention-in-Despatches.


"Join the army — or go to hell!"

His father · the one career-counselling session of his life
Era II

Fauji

1972–1980
  1. The Doon School — nicknamed "Fauji"

    War paintings in the Art School, chief editor of the school paper Hell'uva Fag while still a junior, and top of the English Language paper in India's last Senior Cambridge batch.

  2. He rebels against the army

    Expected to enlist, at the NDA entrance exam he writes only his name and roll number and walks out.

  3. Madras Christian College

    From failing every first-semester subject to captain of the college tennis team; co-creates the campus festival "Deep Woods."

  4. Wins the Times of India essay prize

    His essay "The Pseudo Society," secretly entered by his professor, wins the All-India competition — and lands him a trainee's desk at the paper at nineteen.


"Kunal… buddy! You'll have to shoot yourself. All the best!"

Bittu Sahgal · 1986
Era III

Mountains

1981–1986
  1. Opening the routes to Zanskar

    Quits the Times of India for a quarter of the salary to open Himalayan trekking routes for Tiger Tops between Srinagar and Leh; crosses the 17,000-ft Umasi La into Zanskar in his first season.

  2. The maps that started the race for Siachen

    In Padam he barters a route sketch for two US Air Force maps — which show the American cartographic line handing the Siachen Glacier to Pakistan. The maps travel to Army HQ and Indira Gandhi; the race for Siachen begins.

  3. A life saved on the Kanji La

    On a late-season crossing, finds a frostbitten sixteen-year-old horseman left for dead in a stone shelter — revives him and pays to have him flown out. The boy lives.

  4. First descent of the Marsyangdi

    Eighth man on the first successful raft descent of Nepal's Marsyangdi river.

  5. India Today — and a summons to South Block

    His exposé of Srinagar as the subcontinent's wildlife-poaching loophole causes an uproar in Parliament — and the 23-year-old is summoned to brief Prime Minister Indira Gandhi in person.

  6. Shot in the shin at Kaziranga

    Investigating rhino poaching, he chases poachers to the Brahmaputra and is shot — the slug dug out with a heated knife, the wound dressed with egg white.

  7. Operation Blue Star

    A surreal midnight audience with Lt Gen Sundarji; he witnesses the Golden Temple assault from Amritsar, then covers the Sikh Regiment mutiny at Ramgarh.

  8. The night of the assassination

    Indira Gandhi is assassinated. Now an AP correspondent, he rides into the burning city, seizes a marked voters' list proving the killings were organized, carries it to the army — and spends the night facing down a mob to defend a friend's family.

  9. Bhopal, for the Associated Press

    He walks the gas-soaked lanes of Nishatpura with a wet cloth over his face, and is the lone journalist in pursuit as Union Carbide's CEO is quietly flown out of India.

  10. A napkin sketch for Rajiv Gandhi

    Flying to Punjab rallies, he sketches an assassination vulnerability on a napkin mid-flight; by the next sortie, the rally platform design had been changed.

  11. Wildlife camp, and a wolf hunt

    Convenes the Army's first Wildlife Preservation Camp at Sariska; in Hazaribagh, joins a village beat against man-eating wolves and shoots two of the four himself.

  12. He quits journalism for the jungles

    After watching a staged "militant" photograph make the national front pages, he leaves journalism for good.


"Make a film that makes the air force feel nine feet tall!"

J.R.D. Tata · Bombay House, 1992
Era IV

Call of the Wild

1986–1992
  1. The Project Tiger series

    Bittu Sahgal hands him the 13-part television series. On his first shoot as director he films dholes in Sariska — the first ever recorded there — and Rajiv Gandhi schedules a cabinet visit to see them.

  2. "You'll have to shoot yourself"

    At Calcutta airport, with no cameraman in sight — the emergency that made him a cinematographer.

  3. The Bastar wild buffalo

    Deep in Naxal Bastar, from a watchtower in 46°C heat, he films the wild buffalo — the first photographic record since 1956 — then is escorted into Abuzmad by an armed Naxal column to film tribes few outsiders had seen.

  4. KaleidoIndia is founded

    With film editor Dipti Bhalla — the partnership named on the spot at the stamp-paper vendor's counter.

  5. Call of the Wild

    The five-part series for the Department of Tourism: wild tigers filmed mating at close range in Ranthambhore, forty elephants swimming a Periyar lake.

  6. Twelve feet from a tusker

    Alone beneath a tree in Corbett, camera running, as the resident tusker halts, studies him, and saunters off. "The closest I came to attaining Nirvana."

  7. J.R.D. Tata sanctions the IAF film

    At Bombay House, ₹21 lakh for a film on the Indian Air Force with two conditions — never come back for more, and "make a film that makes the air force feel nine feet tall!"


"When you write your autobiography, remember this moment. Alright Kunal, you have control."

Wg Cdr Nandrajog · handing him a Mirage 2000 mid-air, 1992
Era V

Nine Feet Tall

1992–2003
  1. Marriage, then reconnaissance

    Marries Dipti Bhalla in Bombay. Within weeks the two are flying reconnaissance across India for the IAF film.

  2. Salt of the Earth is shot

    Across the length of India: he flies MiG-29s, Mirage 2000s and Jaguars, lands at an 18,500-ft post on the Saltoro ridge, films the then-secret MiG-25 Foxbats — and holds a MiG-21 level when his pilot blacks out mid-sortie. Dipti becomes the first woman to fly in an IAF Jaguar.

  3. Premiere on Doordarshan

    Salt of the Earth, narrated by cosmonaut Rakesh Sharma, is telecast nationally — outdrawing the country's most popular programming.

  4. The Naval Dimension trilogy

    Carrier recoveries on INS Vikrant, missile launches filmed from a helicopter hovering at "hand-shaking distance."

  5. Four days at gunpoint in Kashmir

    For the Army's Green Flash films he spends four days embedded — hooded, at gunpoint — with a Hizbul Mujahideen group; the tapes are screened for the Prime Minister and the Army Chief.

  6. Charting the Deep

    His hydrography film is screened in Malta — and helps India beat the Royal Navy to the contract to chart Oman's waters.

  7. Kargil, under artillery fire

    He films the war from Drass, Batalik and Tiger Hill, distributes his footage free to every network, and records the POW interviews that oblige Pakistan to take its soldiers back.

  8. Shown to President Clinton

    His Kargil film is presented to Bill Clinton during the US state visit; Time magazine features it.

  9. Aakash Yodha

    A year flying with the IAF — formation aerobatics with the Surya Kirans, Su-30s, doors-off helicopter sorties to 20,000-ft Siachen posts.

  10. Aakash Yodha on Air Force Day

    It airs on Discovery — the Air Chief credits him with "single-handedly solving the IAF's recruitment problem." The Standard Bearers, his NDA film, follows weeks later.


"You will change the face of the country with this."

President Pratibha Patil · on the Northeast Trilogy, 2011
Era VI

Ocean to Sky, and into History

2004–2016
  1. Cover of Ocean to Sky — India from the Air

    First book: Ocean to Sky

    India from the Air (Roli Books) — a decade of aerial photography, with a foreword by Rakesh Sharma.

  2. The testimony of a survivor

    In Varanasi he records Honorary Captain Darshat Singh — a Nam Ka Chu survivor shot some twenty times in 1962 — the testimony that will open his landmark book twelve years later.

  3. Cover of the Military World Games volume

    The Military World Games

    Shoots the Games film and book, teaching himself digital sports photography and out-shooting the international agencies.

  4. Cover of the Assam Rifles 175th-anniversary volume

    The Northeast becomes a calling

    The Northeast Palette, then the Assam Rifles 175th-anniversary volumes, released by President Pratibha Patil.

  5. Cover of The Long Road to Siachen: The Question Why

    The Long Road to Siachen

    The Question Why (Rupa) — its cover photograph one he had taken himself on a 2001 helicopter approach at 20,000 ft.

  6. Cover of The Northeast Trilogy

    The Northeast Trilogy

    All three service chiefs release it: 105 shooting trips over three and a half years, 2,300+ photographs across 1,100 pages, designed entirely by him. The Prime Minister had wanted it released from the Red Fort.

  7. Cover of Courage & Conviction

    Courage & Conviction

    Co-authors the autobiography of Gen V.K. Singh (Aleph), and is commissioned to write the definitive series on India's post-Independence wars.

  8. Cover of 1962: The War That Wasn't

    1962: The War That Wasn't

    Launched at the India International Centre — his mother does the honours. Critics call it the book that set the bar for Indian military history.

Era VII

The Long Road Continues

2016–today
  1. The alternate-education mission begins

    Packed lecture halls from Doon to Chennai reveal students starved of their own military history; he begins monthly lectures and, in October 2017, the first two-day Military History Seminar at Welham Boys'.

  2. Cover of the Tamil Nadu volume

    The Tamil Nadu volume, and Taipei

    The Tamil Nadu volume of his southern project is launched in Chennai; the same year he presents it to President Tsai Ing-wen in Taipei.

  3. Cover of 1965: A Western Sunrise

    1965: A Western Sunrise

    Written through lockdown at Windsong, his home in Kullu, it is released on his 61st birthday — completing the wars diptych.

  4. Photographing the McMahon Line

    Weeks of doors-off helicopter sorties over Arunachal and Sikkim, cresting 20,000 ft — photographing the McMahon Line for the first time.

    Aerial view of Kangto, the highest mountain in Arunachal, along the McMahon Line See the McMahon Line photo essay · 2026 →
  5. The mission carries forward

    The two-part Yodha: Illustrated Military History of India and a quartet of wildlife volumes carry the work onward: giving India back its military and natural history.

    Cover of Yodha, Part 1 Cover of Yodha, Part 2
  6. The Arunachal Trilogy

    Three forthcoming volumes on Arunachal Pradesh — Western (The Sap Runs Perennial), Central (Ladders to Heaven) and Eastern (The Wild Green Kingdom) — a portrait of the state's land, peoples and wildlife.

    Cover of Western Arunachal: The Sap Runs Perennial Cover of Central Arunachal: Ladders to Heaven Cover of Eastern Arunachal: The Wild Green Kingdom

"Seasons come and seasons go… I can only remember with gratitude the time spent with so many people who then become a part of one's life. And yet, as they say, time waits for no one…"